* * *
March 14, 2010
woollen metropolis
by Antonia Leslie

All those clever near colours, not quite grey nearly coffee and almost chocolate. Haider Ackermann gave a very stately show at a slow pace, so a lot of time to appreciate the very tailored long silhouettes. Tailoring galore with zipped peplums, leather lined shawl collars, clinched waists and plenty of asymmetry.The were reworked men's suits in an almost mafia like silk and beautifully cut leather that looked like solid lace and was worn as an evening dress or as modern bussles sneaking out from under jackets. As the girls walked in that slightly robotic pace, the film Metropolis came to mind and the soft wool became like sculptural metal. There were even a few pilot caps adding to the idea of robots by taking the hair away. I think Fritz Lang would have enjoyed this show.

Haider Ackermann