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March 6, 2011
free fall for all
by Antonia Leslie

This season the Undercover collection managed to avoid decision or design. The looks had the feel of free fall thought, any fabric any texture and any colour. It was very refreshing and woke me up. I think this no design is the hardest to achieve and is sometimes a plateau for change. In his early years Martin Margeila had a very similar feeling. I loved the combinations of textures, a bustier of metal leaves with thick knit ribbing or the pale grey beige dress of feathers and furnishing type jaquard. The very simple oatmeal skinny rib jumper with the slight balloon mini in cream metal leaf sequins was very strong. The colours were also surprising, a camel a line coat with pale blue grey panels. Then more pale blue but with eastern gang like embroidery of fox heads. Way to go Undercover.

Undercover