February 9, 2005 Stephen McGowan - After-Before by Lee Adams Stephen McGowan’s catwalk shows are more like art exhibitions than regular fashion events. His latest Collection After Before takes the linguistic conceit of its title to suggest something going the wrong way. McGowan’s clothes refuse to start at the starting point, his surrealist cut and paste approach to design and tailoring has produced a wonderful series of eccentric re-workings that explore the way shapes extend from the body. His shirts are heavily sculpted with pleated panels, the sleeves extended and stitched together to form a straightjacket, whilst military tunics are amputated and worn asymmetrically. By twisting formal tailoring, McGowan's designs skilfully manage to project an intriguing blend of the elegant, the playful and the sensual. email: after_before at hotmail.com