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MARCH 10, 2011
Dior
By Antonia Leslie
The light in Paris was particularly beautiful on the day of the Christian Dior show. That pale lemon spring sunshine bathed all the policemen trying desperately to control the ever mounting traffic problems near the Rodin museum. It left me with the feeling that we were all extras acting a film. A few minutes later I was standing in the blackness of the velvet lined tent listening to a speech given to express the views of LVMH about the never ending saga surrounding John Galliano.
The set was a transparent ice colour lit with a blue white light on Mr Toledano the CEO of Dior as he read from three sheets of paper. This gave the impression that he was making an introduction, but no name was mentioned. Galliano was referred to only as the designer.
This was not the most joyful start to the show and the silence was palpable.
Thank goodness, as if by some miracle it was understated, elegant and quite youthful with no sign of theatrical makeup or design. The shapes were refined and the colours subdued with clever combinations such as burgundy, pale rust and kaki. Mature fabrics like tweed or velvet were offset with light silks, chiffon pleats and the occasional whimsical touch of a hotpant cami knicker with satin bows. This seemed to be the theme of this show, mature and young, Dior and Galliano. Young girls in cropped Chanel like pastel tweed jackets with shorts in pale blue taffetta or long haired fur jackets with knickerbockers and high heeled thigh boots. There were a coulple of highway men with floor length capes or oversize fur collars and cuffs for some subtle theatre. The first of the many dresses seemed furry too in peach ruffled chiffon and following was a flurry of very feminine garden party dresses, perfect for Vivienne Leigh in a Tramway Named Desire.
Even all the metres of pastel chiffon and floating organza did not lift the spirits of the room. What helped was the charming idea to send out the studio team that has worked for years behind the scenes on all of John Galliano's shows and even from before his time. About twenty people in dentist coats stood demurely with the white light bouncing off them and this lifted the mood. Cheers soon followed, in my case as much for Galliano's work over the years as for these people who work equally as hard, that we never see.
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Dior
Antonia Leslie
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