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OCTOBER 24, 2011
TSUMORI AND LEONARD
By Antonia Leslie
The Tsumori show took place under a rather cold glass and steel vaulted roof in a bank like hall. This was a quite a sharp contrast to the clothes and also to the outside as a late summer heatwave was making the press fraternity look positively soporific. Carmen Mirandas, Suzi Woos and Betty Grables came up on a rather majestic staircase; rather out of keeping with it's surrounds and sauntered around the pale azure glass floor, which seemed to be lit from beneath. I could see Hawaii 5 O and The Big Sleep, the tropical 1940's right down to the shoes. The skirt length was especially elegant, balancing on the top of the calf muscle and rising to a high nipped waist, a perfect foil for the elaborate shoes. Now about those shoes, I do not think there is a little or big girl who wouldn't want at least one pair. They were extravagant but highly wearable, well by some. As usual her eclectic mix was just so much fun, knitted sequins with leather, flag like stripes with toile de jouy, stripey and flowery. The parasols lent a southern belle elegance to the movement of the girls and framed their faces. So many colours and nuances like a new Caran Dacha pencil box or untouched eye shadows. There were also more sultry looks for the tropical boudoir with lace appliqué sequins and satins, Street Car named Desire but in Tobago. We all left dripping with enthusiasm.
Much cooler was the Leonard, Antibes pool, cypress trees and Alain Delon with a hint of Fiji. That silk jersey is so silent when it moves. One could imagine languid movements in the late afternoon sun and draped people on designer chaises longues. No tropical cocktails here just cold glasses of champagne and Black Russian's. Actually the setting was the stark white of the Jeu de Paume main gallery at Place de la Concord, and outside the heat wave continued. Veronique plunged into the late sixties and early seventies with wide legged jump suits and maxi dresses. The colours were acid brights or all the coffees with some graphic black thrown amongst the pigeons. There were Chinese Chrysanthemums, Hibiscus and strangely photographic black circles and sometimes the print was cut into stripes by white bands. The length was just below the knee (the length this season), short shorts or maxi wide. It must be hard to renew flower prints every season but Veronique always takes it to another level. The graphic pop art with the blousey Chrysanthemums was a great combination. We all left this time dreaming of pools and being Romy Schneider.
Links
See Pictures from the Tsumori show
See Pictures from the Leonard show
Tsumori
Leonard
Antonia Leslie
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