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Goodness we had such a pushy entrance to the Viktor and Rolf show, and it only got worse when we were finally let through, when lower back pummeling became the order of the day. One woman was even heard to say "I must get through right now I have an appointment"! On the other side of mayhem was the calm of dappled sunlight falling on gravel just gently disturbed by high heels wobbling past. Inside the rich black felt seats were on a very high incline which made a valley down towards the catwalk in white tiles, somewhat like the Isey Miyake show. The black seats and the tile grouting gave the right tone to the smart clean neatness of the school uniform, that was their theme this season. The looks were all navy, grey, black and white, and piping or badges were the preferred detailing. All the crispness of ironed pleats and creases gave a kind of jauntiness to the show, like a cocktail party on a 1930's liner going to New York. The Viktor and Rolf side appeared in the form of asymmetric blazers showing beautiful collar bones, layering of pleated navy skirts over long bermudas and open backed blue soled loafers. Other fabrics such as silk and tweed crept in, but all were given this crisp cotton neatness, so much so that one could almost smell the laundry room and the nanny ironing. Ah, but even when neat we can be naughty, and the exuberance of the badges used as appliqued emblems on sleeveless jumpers, short sleeved mini shirts and even a net sweatshirt, was the wink at punk that was the perfect school joke.

See Pictures from the show
Review & Photography Antonia Leslie
Viktor & Rolf


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