Ok Bercy is not the easiest of destinations to get to or is it just the thought of it. It is a large grass covered cone of a building with the top cut off. Here they hold sports events, concerts and apparently is Yohji Yamamoto's venue of choice. We were given all the distance we needed to view the show, as the models walked out diagonally across the huge concrete floor, under a series of suspended theatre lights and metal railing. I thought of Edwardian East London, rainy puddles and Eliza Doolittle. The black looks that started the show would have been right at home in Les Halles at the end of the last century. Very fitted and floor length hobble skirts with cropped little jackets, or chimney sweep trouser suits, think Fagin and his gang of pickpockets. I read somewhere that Yohji looks often at the photographs of August Sander for inspiration. Suddenly we left the late nineteenth century and flew to right now. The place was full of floating layered acid colours, mixed together with a childlike sense of humour. I thought of all the sherbet colours in the sweetshop. There was a charming touch of different coloured sneakers as if the child had got dressed by itself. Then we moved from child to adult, with a camouflage print but on very light fabrics, and back to child with brights again. He ended with a palette of grey, black and white, as groups of girls walked on the slightly shiny grey concrete and back to Oliver Twist and Fagin's gang in their sunday best.

See Pictures from the show
Review & Photography Antonia Leslie
Yohji Yamamoto